Tuesday, September 04, 2018

Birch Creek Service Ranch & beatitudes for a new generation


After about 10 years of mostly responsible adulting, I can only begin to describe how good it has been this summer to check back in with Birch Creek Ranch.

The Ranch has no creed, but its philosophy is essentially summed up in this poem, written by Lowell Bennion in 1962:

“Learn to like what doesn't cost much.
Learn to like reading, conversation, music.
Learn to like plain food, plain service, plain cooking.
Learn to like fields, trees, brooks, hiking, rowing, climbing hills.
Learn to like people, even though some of them may be different, different from you.
Learn to like to work and enjoy the satisfaction doing your job as well as it can be done.
Learn to like the song of birds, the companionship of dogs.
Learn to like gardening, going around the house fixing things.
Learn to like the sunrise and sunset, the beating of rain on the roof and windows, and the gentle fall of snow on a winter day.
Learn to keep your wants simple and refuse to be controlled by the likes and dislikes of others.”

Simplicity and contemplation; hard work and creativity; personal growth and community awareness; resourcefulness and independent thought; and an appreciation for life, nature, and difference. This is the basis on which Dr. Bennion ran his summer ranch in Tenon Valley, Idaho for over 40 years. And it has continued as a kind of beatific ethos for Birch Creek for the past 15 years. That is, from the days when it was a few yurts, a couple porta-potties, an outdoor kitchen with a French drain, and an old, heavy, hot-as-hell canvas army tent in the cheat grass of Pigeon Hollow, to now, running things out of a straw-bale lodge, properly wired and plumbed, a fine “chapel in the junipers,” and even reliable (and mostly air-conditioned!) vehicles.



Here’s some of that that looked like this summer.
A descent into Dark Canyon starts with a quick sermon on cryptobiotic crust. (“Like desert coral reefs,” one of the boys says. OK, looks like we get it; let’s go!) Over the next few hours we will see what rubbish snacks some of them chose to buy at the gas station by the colors and consistency of their barf in the sand: Corn Nuts, Frito Lay, neon red Slurpee, and so on. Embodied learning.


Sunrise on the dirtmonsters.
On the loooong walk back up the “Devil’s Stairway,” I admire and comment on one boy’s daypack, how it’s probably older than he is. He explains that it is the pack his father took when he came to his home country to adopt him. And that his father had now lent it to him for the summer. We talk and he goes on to tell me about how he ended up losing some of his best friends on the last day of school before heading off into the summer. Some misunderstanding and teen drama at Lagoon Day. Middle school is hard, but life tends to only get better from there; we talk for a while about that.

Some of the boys talk about all the world travels their wealthy families have taken them on. Others from more modest circumstances have never really left their home state. One of the other boys has two seemingly permanent boogers oozing from both of his nostrils day after day of the trip, like a sort of Garbage Pail Kid. His mouth breathing is loud and labored the whole way up the climb. But he sets his own steady if slow pace and makes it all the way.

When people sometimes ask whether we’re working with “at risk youth,” the response is usually something like: “Are there any teenagers in 21st century America who aren’t at risk for so much?”




View of the Tetons from Bennion Teton Ranch.
Nebo from Birch Creek.


Sunday, August 26, 2018

90 miles in the San Juans





Weminuche with Lamar








Strawberry fields. Then things get real. Hailstorm & lightning over Skyline/Opal pass. (My children are all born and named, but if yours are not, you might consider Skyline Opal for the shortlist.)











Window over Continental Divide:  Colorado River over yonder, Rio Grande that-a-way.









Climbing out over Rock Lake.







Uncompahgre with Brian






“Acabamos de bajar la sierra y entramos en las riberas y vegas del río de San Francisco, nombrado de los yutas ancapagri (que según el intérprete dice Laguna Colorada) porque dicen haber cerca de su nacimiento un ojo de agua colorada, caliente, y de mal gusto. En esta vega del río, que es grande y muy llana, hay una camino muy ancho y trillado. Por él río abajo anduvimos legua y media al noreste, y paramos junto a una ciénega grande muy abundante de pastos que nombramos La Ciénega de San Francisco. Hoy cinco leguas.”

“We finished descending the sierra and came upon the banks and meadows of El Río San Francisco—among the Yutas called Ancapagari (which, according to our interpreter, means Red Lake), because they say that near its source there is a spring of red-colored water, hot and ill-tasting. On this river meadow, which is large and very level, there is a wide and well-beaten trail. We went along it downstream for a league and a half northeast and halted next to a big marsh greatly abounding in pasturage, which we named La Ciénega de San Francisco. Today five leagues.”

—from The Domínguez-Escalante Journal, Fray Silvestre Vélez De Escalante (August 26, 1776)

(Or, as Brian put it, “This water tastes like a bloody nose.”)


Backpacking with a geologist is a to have the rocks read to you, a tour through deep time: andesite, breccia, porphyry, intrusive dikes.

Also, plenty of time to talk movies. Hunt for the Wilderpeople, Star Warsessss, Big Lebowski, Never Cry Wolf, Dr. Strangelove, The Future is Unwritten, and so on.  (And, of course, Rubin and Ed, and its longstanding efficacy as a friendship-compatibility test.) Here Brian explains why he didn’t care for La La Land.


Brian takes real pictures.


Coyote, pika, sheep, Uncompahgre fritilary butterfly.







Nice marmot.